I was ordering a fuel filter replacement from beemerboneyard and decided to also order the Flexible In-tank Fuel Line Kit because I had read it was good to get the old stuff out of the ethanol.
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/subhosekit.html
So, now I have 2 10" pieces of flexible hose. Aside from the vent lines, there isn't 10" of regular hose in there. Has anyone else installed these? I think I may exrternalize the filter anyway why I'm at it.
Also, am I supposed to be removing the filler and doing something with that?
Thanks
Replacing in tank fuel lines
Moderator: Moderators
Replacing in tank fuel lines
2003 R1150R
1999 Yamaha VStar 650 Classic (sold)
1991 Honda Nighthawk CB250 !!
1999 Yamaha VStar 650 Classic (sold)
1991 Honda Nighthawk CB250 !!
Re: Replacing in tank fuel lines
Externalizing the filter can be tricky and anytime your inside the tank and have access to the filter CHANGE IT!
If I were to buy a used moto (and do) one rule I have is no major mods to the machine and an externalized filter from an internal one would be a deal breaker for me.
just say'in
If I were to buy a used moto (and do) one rule I have is no major mods to the machine and an externalized filter from an internal one would be a deal breaker for me.
just say'in
mike Mojave CA
'04 ROCKSTER
'04 ROCKSTER
Re: Replacing in tank fuel lines
I've gone ahead and just done the simple replacement of the the filter and clamps. New o-ring.
I took off the filler end to inspect it. And of course I didn't note the position of the reducer so now I'm confused on the orientation. It looks like the little drain hole goes at 9 o'clock based on some pictures and it makes sense since the bike would be on its side stand when filling. It FEELS like it want to go at about 11 o'clock. Does someone know the proper orientation?
Also, I think my two vent lines from the filler were reversed at some point. My charcoal canister was removed BY a PO. So, the internal vent coming from the safety valve goes to the line that is now plugged. The overkill line should drain out under the bike. Right?
I took off the filler end to inspect it. And of course I didn't note the position of the reducer so now I'm confused on the orientation. It looks like the little drain hole goes at 9 o'clock based on some pictures and it makes sense since the bike would be on its side stand when filling. It FEELS like it want to go at about 11 o'clock. Does someone know the proper orientation?
Also, I think my two vent lines from the filler were reversed at some point. My charcoal canister was removed BY a PO. So, the internal vent coming from the safety valve goes to the line that is now plugged. The overkill line should drain out under the bike. Right?
2003 R1150R
1999 Yamaha VStar 650 Classic (sold)
1991 Honda Nighthawk CB250 !!
1999 Yamaha VStar 650 Classic (sold)
1991 Honda Nighthawk CB250 !!
Re: Replacing in tank fuel lines
racurley wrote:I've gone ahead and just done the simple replacement of the the filter and clamps. New o-ring.
I took off the filler end to inspect it. And of course I didn't note the position of the reducer so now I'm confused on the orientation. It looks like the little drain hole goes at 9 o'clock based on some pictures and it makes sense since the bike would be on its side stand when filling. It FEELS like it want to go at about 11 o'clock. Does someone know the proper orientation?
Also, I think my two vent lines from the filler were reversed at some point. My charcoal canister was removed BY a PO. So, the internal vent coming from the safety valve goes to the line that is now plugged. The overkill line should drain out under the bike. Right?
If your talking about the gas cap it only goes two ways 180 deg apart, as in the flip up either opens forward or aft?
Yes.
If you do not have a manual?! The go to a site like Max BMW and look at their parts fich.
mike Mojave CA
'04 ROCKSTER
'04 ROCKSTER
Re: Replacing in tank fuel lines
Thanks. I'm actually looking at the reducer under the filler cap. There's a drain hole. You position it over top over the holes for the screws that hold it to the tank.
2003 R1150R
1999 Yamaha VStar 650 Classic (sold)
1991 Honda Nighthawk CB250 !!
1999 Yamaha VStar 650 Classic (sold)
1991 Honda Nighthawk CB250 !!
Re: Replacing in tank fuel lines
So, I looked at a parts fiche and it would sort of imply that the drain hole is at 9 o'clock but the safety valve is positioned toward the rear.
https://www.ascycles.com/2/MicroList?id ... l%20Supply
Beemer Boneyard has a used part that has the safety valve positioned like mine. It just makes it a little bit tight with the safety valve angled toward the front.
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/16117654392.html
I think I will just go with it positioned at 9 o'clock.
https://www.ascycles.com/2/MicroList?id ... l%20Supply
Beemer Boneyard has a used part that has the safety valve positioned like mine. It just makes it a little bit tight with the safety valve angled toward the front.
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/16117654392.html
I think I will just go with it positioned at 9 o'clock.
2003 R1150R
1999 Yamaha VStar 650 Classic (sold)
1991 Honda Nighthawk CB250 !!
1999 Yamaha VStar 650 Classic (sold)
1991 Honda Nighthawk CB250 !!
Re: Replacing in tank fuel lines
Ok. So that was pretty ridiculous putting the fuel pump back into the tank. I did not get lucky and have it go in on one of the first 15 tries.
This is what finally worked...
Put a long zip-tie on the two lines in the tank so I could catch it if I dropped them back into the tank.
The tank was upside down so might be confusing with up and down but I'll say toward the bottom of the tank or the top.
Held the inside lines toward the top of the tank and slightly to the rear.
I held the entire unit up outside the tank to see what it should look like when it is oriented correctly. The bottom of the pump with the strainer should end up in the low part of the tank. This leaves the pump perpendicular to the ground.
I inserted the fuel pump and strainer in more or less oriented in the right direction. Maybe it was rotated slightly clockwise.
The sending unit was lined up to go in.
I was able to route the internal lines above (toward the top of the tank) the fuel pump and attach them at the points I had marked.
Using the new clamps, you have to orient the screws so that they will clear the edge of the hole in the tank. (figured that out on one of my attempts.)
Once the lines were attached, the sending unit and filter went right in and the unit was more or less aligned.
I laid the tank on its side and got the o-ring in the groove correctly. Having the opening flat helped to use gravity to get the o-ring aligned.
Lowered the unit onto the bolts and tightened it down.
Put a couple of gallons of gas in it outside and am doing a leak test on the seal and the hole repair from a prior boneheaded move.
When I finally did it correctly, it seems so easy. I wish I had filmed it so I could watch the last attempt.
Put a long zip-tie on the two lines in the tank so I could catch it if I dropped them back into the tank.
The tank was upside down so might be confusing with up and down but I'll say toward the bottom of the tank or the top.
Held the inside lines toward the top of the tank and slightly to the rear.
I held the entire unit up outside the tank to see what it should look like when it is oriented correctly. The bottom of the pump with the strainer should end up in the low part of the tank. This leaves the pump perpendicular to the ground.
I inserted the fuel pump and strainer in more or less oriented in the right direction. Maybe it was rotated slightly clockwise.
The sending unit was lined up to go in.
I was able to route the internal lines above (toward the top of the tank) the fuel pump and attach them at the points I had marked.
Using the new clamps, you have to orient the screws so that they will clear the edge of the hole in the tank. (figured that out on one of my attempts.)
Once the lines were attached, the sending unit and filter went right in and the unit was more or less aligned.
I laid the tank on its side and got the o-ring in the groove correctly. Having the opening flat helped to use gravity to get the o-ring aligned.
Lowered the unit onto the bolts and tightened it down.
Put a couple of gallons of gas in it outside and am doing a leak test on the seal and the hole repair from a prior boneheaded move.
When I finally did it correctly, it seems so easy. I wish I had filmed it so I could watch the last attempt.
2003 R1150R
1999 Yamaha VStar 650 Classic (sold)
1991 Honda Nighthawk CB250 !!
1999 Yamaha VStar 650 Classic (sold)
1991 Honda Nighthawk CB250 !!
Re: Replacing in tank fuel lines
Bravo! If/when you have to do it again it will be easier!
One thing I did is before removing the flange that holds everything I used a dig camera and took pics. I then took a black marker and put 3 reference points on the flange and tank so the alignment went much better (first try) the next time.(3 so far).
Now that its over (these thing are always a work in progress) you can celebrate new year with a buzz!
One thing I did is before removing the flange that holds everything I used a dig camera and took pics. I then took a black marker and put 3 reference points on the flange and tank so the alignment went much better (first try) the next time.(3 so far).
Now that its over (these thing are always a work in progress) you can celebrate new year with a buzz!
mike Mojave CA
'04 ROCKSTER
'04 ROCKSTER