Clutch fluid replacement, easier way?

[R1150Rclean]

So I have replaced the clutch fluid, and what I found is that I had to replaced the reservoir cover and screws every time I drained and filled up the reservoir during a bleed (it was really old/bad the first time I did it so it took several refills). If I did not replace the reservoir cover, fluid would shoot out of the small hole in the bottom of the reservoir when I pulled the clutch lever. Any one find a way to avoid having to replace the clutch reservoir cover during the bleed, and if not do the screws need to be replaced?
Thanks

[sweatmark]

I'm tempted to fashion a clutch/brake cover piece out of whatever material is appropriate, for use during the fluid changes. Have been curious about trying pressure bleeding using such a reservoir cover, supplying fresh fluid at low pressure (e.g. 5-10 psig) and pushing the new juice all the way through circuit.

If the cover has valved vent tube with working end protruding into reservior chamber at desired working height, then at end of fluid purge, the push pressure could be stopped and vent opened tobleed off excess fluid until working height is reached. Swear I've seen a working version of this idea somwhere online, but can't find it now.

Bought a small (1/4") pressure regulator to use for this, as secondary means of pressure control over my air compressor's main regulator.

Tough part would be sealing the cover against the clutch/brake reservior body. The OE covers aren't that spendy, but would prefer a cheaper option like block of hardwood shaped to fit, with some kind of gasket material to seal the edges.

Result of all this would be simple clutch/brake bleeding, with no worried about the reservior "fountain of youth" or "Old Faithful geyser" phenomenon that spits DOT4 everywhere.

[boxermania]

I use the following almost exclusively, after many years of trial and tribulations.

1) Remove as much old brake fluid from the master cylinder, insuring you don't uncover the hole that feeds the cylinder (to keep air contamination at a minimum)
2) Fill the reservoir with new fluid, it helps to turn the handlebar to the position where the MC is as level as possible and lock it there.
3) Use a hand vacuum pump, with the intermediate reservoir to pull a vacuum on the slave cylinder. They can be bough at Harbor Freight
4) With a long hose that allows you to pull vacuum and monitor the MC level proceed with the bleeding/refill until clear fluid is drawn through.
5) Insure the area in the vicinity of the MC is covered in case there is brake fluid spillage.

[Buckster]

I'm with boxermania with the hand pump. I have one and make the job pretty easy. I got a Mityvac from Amazon for around $25.
http://mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp

[R1150Rclean]

3) Use a hand vacuum pump, with the intermediate reservoir to pull a vacuum on the slave cylinder. They can be bough at Harbor Freight

Boxermania,
Got everything except for the above, what are you referring to as the intermediate reservoir? Are you not using the end bleeder valve on the right side?

[iowabeakster]

Hes talking about something like this...



If you just want to keep the fluid from shooting out of the master...I drop a clean utility knife blade in the reservoir...like this (technically this the front brake though).

[Sunbeemer]

If you just want to keep the fluid from shooting out of the master...I drop a clean utility knife blade in the reservoir...

That's

[riceburner]

just put the rubber boot back in..... simples!

[CycleRob]

iowabeakster, It's the simplest solutions that that are the most elegant. A clean razor knife blade. Heavy enough to not flip over. Shaped so it always covers the geyser hole. Definitely

To avoid the geyser, I just squeezed the lever real slow for the first 1/4" (6mm) so there's not enough pressure or flow to form a geyser. I just see upward fluid movement with a tame central bulge.
As soon as the master cylinder piston's seal goes past the tiny bleedback hole's opening and you feel pumping resistance, you can squeeze it as fast as you want.
I have also put the rubber bellows back in, but it hides the descending liquid level too much as the fluid is being pumped out the bleeder. The slow squeeze or the razor blade techniques allow you to see the fluid level, so air entry won't happen and you can maximize the refill time interval.

[R1150Rclean]

All right, thanks for the info., I guess a quarter would work too, but will try the slow squeeze first.

[R1150Rclean]

The slow squeeze works, until you forget! I ended up using a torx socket to cover the hole and when done just lifted the torx socket out by the torx end and then wiped off the socket.

So I am thinking the clutch oil is getting dark so quickly because of the heat it sees on the back side of the engine. Anyone else think so?