CycleRob's Oil Temp install...

[klrstix]

For anyone that would know the answer, please comment and/or confirm...

When tapping into the spot just below the alternator belt pulley, if I understand it correctly, this hole is not drilled completely through (thereby requiring the removal of this entire assembly to prevent shaving getting inside the motor ). Rather the sender is simply being inserted into the spot after tapping out as instructed. Is this correct?

Thanks.

[challey]

I'm sure Rob will reply when he has a chance but one of the reasons I've held off doing this mod is that I have the same question. Rob's instructions refer to a "blind hole" for the sensor which certainly seems to indicate that it's not through the wall and into the crankshaft. Not knowing how deep to drill is something that makes me more than a little nervous.

Here's a link to Rob's post: http://home.mindspring.com/~jabrooks/te ... m#cyclerob

Charlie

[boxermania]

Gentlemen

There is no drilling whatsoever there is a threaded, blind hole, which has the same thread size as the temperature sensor, however, the threaded protion is not long enough and you have to cut a few additional threads (refer to CycleRob's intructions) to insure that the bottom of the sensor contacts the wall of the engine case. The sensor is not in direct contact with the oil, but CycleRob feels that there is suficient oil contact on the wall via splash to provide a reasonable temperature reading.

From my perspective there are two things that will insure the best possible reading with the least amount of headaches.

1) Make sure that you use a bottom tap which has the bottom perfectly flat as opposed to the point on a regular tap, to eliminate deforming the engine case and or existing threads and compromising the contact between the sensor and the case.

2) Use a dab of heat transfer paste between the bottom of the sensor and the engine case (this can be obtained at Radio Shack) to insure a sound temperature transfer between the sensor and the case.

Happy motoring.....you will be proud after the completion

[jfslater98]

Alright, I'm feeling brave enough to ask the dumb question: how do you tap a thread? Anybody have a link to video or step-by-step pics. My lame swipe at google came up empty.

[CycleRob]

That was a long time ago as my bike was still red. I do remember that the blind hole had no threads in it and only a few were needed to allow the sensor to bottom out after maybe 5 turns. The slightly larger than ideal diameter of the hole (for a full thread depth) means that the thread you tap (create) has a partial thread depth. It's not a problem, as long as you follow my directions about NOT running the tap in too far. Since the needed 1/8 - 27 NPT (National Pipe Thread) tap is actually tapered (the cutting teeth's diameter on the tap's shaft gets bigger the deeper it goes). Notice the slight taper to the tap's threads, from left to center, after the first third on the right, the starting portion, is used. Pipe threads are tapered so tightening the gooped thread joint means the threads jam together tight and will not leak liquids or pressure.



You should be able to buy one in any plumbing store or online like HERE.

Tapping the threads must be performed in a few trial-n-error fits using the sensor, so a good tight fit to the threaded ID of the hole occurs as the unthreaded end of the sensor bottoms out inside the blind hole. If you run the tap in too far, the sensor will be too loose as it bottoms out, because of the taper to the threads. That means less holding power and heat transfer. Mine is still in place, undisturbed and still working, after 6years+.

You absolutely do not drill anything!!

[klrstix]

Well I did not think you "drilled through" but I wanted to make sure.

My Temp Gauge ( Daytona digital, thanks C'Rob...) comes in tomorrow. I am in the process of locating the proper tap. Probably install over the weekend. Will let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for the info and insights everyone.