Vapor Lock? How to? Cold weather oil?

[MikeCam]

Sounds very much like water in the gas and/or a plugged vent hose.

[NoRRmad]

bomhour --

By your description, you've not yet done the high-rev portion of the throttle-body sync, which is done using the throttle-cable adjusters at 4000 RPM. Be sure to keep a fan on the engine to avoid overheating when you do this.

[bomhour]

Mike,

Where would I look to find a plugged vent hose?

Normand,

your right, I did not do the 4000 rpm adjustment yet. I will do it this weekend and get back to you on the results.

thanks again,

[bomhour]

Normand and the gang,

So i did as you suggested and I got much better results. I took at test drive and it performs well up to about 5500-6000 rpms. Now instead of kicking into its power band at 5500rmps, it hold back a bit. Using the Manometer I performed the throttle body sync and the 3000 to 4000 rpm cable adjustment. I have a couple of questions.

1. After I adjusted the cable it seems that the idle would need to be adjusted again, so I would adjust it some more. Should I be readjusting the TB each time I adjust the Cable to get back to an even idle?
2. The right side was always pulling harder than the left. which direction do you turn the cable adjuster to counter act this?
3. I was using the guide for a twinmax and seemed to get opposite results from what I expected. the Throttle Body Sync for Dummies -2003-09-23 says; "turn adjuster counterclockwise (as view from top) to pull the twinmax needle more to the side that you are adjusting. Is pull of the twinmax needle = pull of the water level in the manometer?

and finally...
4. Sometimes as I boosted the idle up to about 2000 or so the water level on the right carb would shoot way up so I would roll on hard and it would drop back down but still be above the left side. then other time some water would get suched all the way in before I could kill the engine. Is a small amount of water in that vaccum going to be a problem?

For the record Anyone out there debating on wether or not to buy the twinmax for your Throttle Body and Idle Adjustment...if you have the dough definitely buy the twinmax. the manometer, while cheap, is kind of a hastle to use if your a first timer, and I kept having to refill it and screw around with it. If you are very patient and don't have the $80 then I will tell you that I did have success with the maometer after many trials. It a convienence thing. I can also tell you that unsofisticated women and my wife have been know to find the manometer and it's successful construction impressive. So it has that going for it.

[boxermania]

I see that being a first timer on the Idle adjust and TB sync, you need to further develop the technique, so:

1) Start with a warm bike
2) Screw in the idle adjustment screws, typically referred as the BBS (Big Brass Screws) ever so lightly until they bottom out and then back them out 1.5 turns.
3) Install the manometer or TwinMax and proceed to balance the idle; it will probably take a very small amount to adjust so I would recommend doing the adjustment on the right side as it is a bit more accessible.
4) After the idle then move to the TB's, also adjust on the right side and insure that: a) The locking nut on the adjuster is overtightened as it will definitely strip the treads....ouch... and B) Insure that the bottom of the cable is in the holder and not riding on the top f the holder.....a common occurrence during these adjustments.
5) Go back and adjust the idle screw, right side, if necessary

Off you go and ride it like you stole it........

[challey]

I use Rotella 5W-40 and ride through PA winters (except when there's snow on the ground) without a problem. I'm a little behind schedule right now though and have noticed that the engine cranks a bit slower with the Mobil 1 15W-50 that's in there at the moment.

Charlie

[bomhour]

Hi all,

Re: 2004 Rockster with idle problems.

I am here to update you on my progress. As I stated at the beginning of this thread, I am having some trouble with my idle and acceleration. the idle is not consitent. It seems to have cyclical miss firing. the bike will idle for 2-5 seconds then one side will miss or choke for a second. It does this at all rpm ranges. I have recently done a valve adjustment, fuel filter, air filter, and spark plugs and finally idle and throttle body sync. None of the previously state replacements/adjustments have solved the issue. the bike is rideable if I keep the choke way up but the acceleration is not all there and it wants to stall a lot.

Please help.

I was thinking of checking these things next-Hall sensor, coils, motronic remap?

[boxermania]

bomhour

Start with the Motronic reprogram as it is the easiest, albeit that is not your problem. You might have a bad TPS, although that would be the exception rather than the norm, but it kinda fits your symptoms.

I would look at the coils next as there have been a handful of coil issues as the bikes grow older, move to the hall sensors next.

Good luck.....

[bomhour]

Boxermanin,

Well the bike is back running perfectly . the culpret this whole time was the primary coils...both of them (according to the dealer). I supect it started with one coil and spread to the other coil as I kept riding for a few days after the simptoms began. I checked the secondary coil first on my way to the hall sensor and they were both checked out fine, that was a lot of work though. I had it in my head that it was the hall sensors. I spent a lot of effort assembling the tool and parts to fix that little bugger. FYI, I was told by the dealer that the bike would not run if the hall sensors were defective? Anyone have any info to the contrary? If that is the case then there are a lot of posts out there that fail to make that point clear . Anyways, thanks for all your help and suggestions and I'm sure we'll talk again soon.