Yosemite

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taosports
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Yosemite

Post by taosports »

Apologies first.

This ride report isn't really about the ride, although I was on the bike for one of my 4 trips to Yosemite this last week and a half. Also, if you're expecting beautiful pics of Yosemite, you'll be disappointed. I'm just excited about what I witnessed and wanted to share. If you're inspired by athleticism and the competitive spirit, like I am, then please read on.

I was assigned to photograph two rock climbers attempt to break the speed record for climbing the 2,900 foot vertical granite rock called El Capitan. The record was a mind boggling 2 hours and 45 minutes on a route that takes most climbers 4-5 days to complete. Needless to say, the climbers Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama are two amazing athletes.

I drove up to Yosemite to meet them prior to a practice climb. Yuji had just arrived from Japan the afternoon before the climb and was still suffering from a lack of sleep and jet lag but they needed this practice climb to get familiar with the route and each other since they hadn't climbed together in over six years. And, most importantly, they place their lives in each other's hands (literally) throughout the climb. They were hoping to do the practice climb in six hours...it only took them less than five.

So, after two days rest, they were ready to attempt to break the record. Starting early in the morning to avoid the heat of the late afternoon sun, they took off or rather up. Yuji always led, his strength and speed and willingness to take risks contrasted well with Hans' ability to not only keep up but also clean up the equipment they needed to ascend the rock. And most importantly, it was Hans' task to be the anchor should Yuji slip and fall.

!st attempt - 3 hours and 28 minutes
2nd - 2 hours and 47 minutes, just 2 minutes off the record!
3rd (and final attempt because Yuji had to fly back home the next day) - see bottom of post.

Following are some of the photos I took to document their efforts. I made a total of 4 trips to Yosemite, just one of them on my bike. The equipment I had to carry was just too much for a comfortable ride on the bike and by the end of the day, I was just too tired to safely ride back home.

Entering Yosemite Valley from the northwest entrance, you are greeted with this classic view. That's El Capitan on the left and Half Dome further in the valley. Note how steep El Capitan is!
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To cover this story, I had to carry a huge lens and tripod and other assorted camera gear. I took the bike once but decided as much fun as it was to ride to Yosemite, it was much more pratical to cage it. That's Bridal Veil Fall in the background.
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You can't see them, but Hans and Yuji are climbing El Capitan in this shot that gives you some perspective on just how tall the granite wall is.
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The early morning sun is reflected off the top of the rock.
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Yuji and Hans look up at the base of El Capitan. Yuji is 39 years old, Hans 44.
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Their equipment choices are carefully calculated - they don't want to carry too much weight to slow them down.
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Hans on the lower section of the climb.
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That's me in the white shirt behind my lens in the center. (Photo courtesy of Tom Evans) I used a 600mm lens with a 2X converter giving me a focal length of 1200mm which on the Canon Mark III is a 1560mm lens...still not long enough for this type of photography!
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Hans casts a cool shadow as he motors up the rock wall.
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His wife and daughter watch and yell encouragement from the valley floor.
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Yuji swings through the air, 1,000 feet above the valley floor in a move called the pendulum. This dangerous swing is made to traverse a slick, unclimbable section of the wall. The rock formation above them is called Boot Flake.
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Hans works his way past the Great Roof - almost to the top at this point.
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Success! 2 hours and 43 minutes! A new record.
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Last edited by taosports on Fri Jul 04, 2008 9:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
GypsyRR
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Re: Yosemite

Post by GypsyRR »

Oh man!!! That is so, so cool. The photos are great, Michael! Thank you for showing those to us. Was there a lot of gasping for breath when one of them would slip or swing in the air like in that one photo? The photos make it go by fast, but photographing or watching for 2.5 hours must have been hard. Two things come to mind. My heart would not have been able to take the anxiety of watching that. I'd be on edge the whole time (no pun intended). His poor wife. She must be a nervous wreck by the end of it. And secondly, didn't it kill your neck after that long? Huge lens, Michael. I want one, but not badly enough to go get another job or sell one of my bikes!!

That was my favorite "non-ride" report that you've done since I've been coming here. Incredible. Thank you very much. Gotta go look again now.
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Re: Yosemite

Post by Arbee »

Awesome photos, really good, i would like to get there one day
Can you tell me what grade the climb is, 5.10B etc, oz grade 24 etc, was it the "the nose of el capitan"
can you also tell me about the fixed rope in place did they climb up or jumar on the rope using ascenders
how long was the fixed rope was it put in place before the climb???
thanks


cheers arbee
taosports
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Re: Yosemite

Post by taosports »

Arbee wrote:Can you tell me what grade the climb is, 5.10B etc, oz grade 24 etc, was it the "the nose of el capitan"
can you also tell me about the fixed rope in place did they climb up or jumar on the rope using ascenders
how long was the fixed rope was it put in place before the climb???
Thanks Arbee, yes, it was the Nose. It's rated 5.13+. Not sure the length of the rope. They did not place rope or any equipment on the wall prior to their climb. Hans used ascenders at times and at other times, they were simul-climbing which was exciting to see.
GypsyRR wrote:...Was there a lot of gasping for breath when one of them would slip or swing in the air like in that one photo?

Thanks Gypsy, it was a fun story to cover. Yes, there was a pretty good crowd on the valley floor each day watching the show above and whenever Hans and Yuji made an exciting move, there would be loud whoops and hollers from the crowd loud enough for the climbers to hear
His poor wife. She must be a nervous wreck by the end of it.

Hans' wife Jackie is a climber herself - she was the first woman to solo the Nose route of El Capitan six years ago - so I'm sure she wished she was up there climbing with her husband.
...didn't it kill your neck after that long?
Surprisingly enough, no my neck is not sore. Think wearing a helmet all of these years have strengthen my neck muscles. My quads however are another story. :shock: I did some hiking/climbing up alongside El Capitan to meet the climbers as they were coming back down on the last day and my legs are really feeling the effort!
Last edited by taosports on Fri Jul 04, 2008 10:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
MikeCam
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Re: Yosemite

Post by MikeCam »

My brother and niece were there at the same time. Did you see them?
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taosports
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Re: Yosemite

Post by taosports »

MikeCam wrote:My brother and niece were there at the same time. Did you see them?
Yes, I did! Small world huh? They had some interesting things to say about their brother. :shock:
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Re: Yosemite

Post by Dr. Strangelove »

amazing stuff, Michael.

were there any close calls, or are these guys machines?

Can they get life insurance?

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Re: Yosemite

Post by Arbee »

OMG a climb rated 5.13 is equivalent to an oz rated 30 only 5 per cent of climbers get past 26
full credit to their ability...
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Re: Yosemite

Post by gunga din »

Very exhilarating sequence of images, not sure I could have sustained the interest to witness the whole climb if there, but thanks to your patience and willingness to share, I feel like i have witnessed the whole event, though sans the ambient ooohs and aaahs.

How do you fit all that photographic gear, notice you have two bodies (cameras that is) and since you have a 600mm i can't imagine they all fit into the pelican case, so how do you carry all that equipment?

Cheers Gunga
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taosports
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Re: Yosemite

Post by taosports »

gunga din wrote: How do you fit all that photographic gear, notice you have two bodies (cameras that is) and since you have a 600mm i can't imagine they all fit into the pelican case, so how do you carry all that equipment?

Cheers Gunga
Hi Gunga,

No, the 600mm monster could not fit in the Pelican case. :lol: I did have 3-4 lenses in there but the 600 was in a bag, strapped to the passenger seat. If you look at the bike photo, you'll see the bag containing the 600 along with two camera bodies. Also strapped on top of that is my laptop computer since I had to send photos back to my paper. My tripod wrapped in foam is strapped to the top of the Pelican case.
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Re: Yosemite

Post by 1MPH »

Very nice Michael. Nice work if you can get, and I guess you tried.
How long did it take you to drive there from the city? TIA
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Re: Yosemite

Post by mnnden »

Micheal, One of our sons has done some climbing, (nothing like this) even though I am not a huge fan (makes me too nervous) your pictures are beautiful, and the write-up is very interesting, I have been watching the news and following the fires in CA. and from what I hear and read it is now it is burning in Yosemite, I am really hoping they can get it under control. Thanks Den
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taosports
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Re: Yosemite

Post by taosports »

Thanks Den.

The fire is still about 15 miles from the west entrance to the park, but out of control and only 10% contained. I just got back from covering it for my paper yesterday. Here are a few pics I took :

An air tanker drops fire retardant on some hot spots.
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Witnessed this couple watching their retirement home burn. Very sad...
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Fire heads up the steep canyon walls.
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taosports
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Re: Yosemite

Post by taosports »

1MPH wrote: How long did it take you to drive there from the city? TIA
Yosemite is about 3 hours from my house.
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Re: Yosemite

Post by mnnden »

Michael, Thanks for the pictures, they are beautiful, I just wish it was under different circumstances, although some will say "it is natures way".
I have heard it said that "A picture is worth a thousand words"
I think your picture verifies that statement, Den

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Re: Yosemite

Post by chris »

Great stuff Michael! Oddly I watched a program about two young guys doing a 1200ft speedclimb climb in the Verdon Gorge France last night. Scary as hell to watch as they launched themselves upwards to grab onto tiny holds. In once case literally a finger tip in a hole was all there was for a hold and he swung from it to get to the next point! When they got to the top they turned aorund and jumped off to freefall almost all the way back before pulling chutes, 2 hours up and 20 seconds back to base!
These guys put me to shame, only a year older than Hans and I get sort of breath on the stairs... :(
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