Help! Rear wheel removal

Post by **ladybeemer** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 3:42 pm

I have a HUGE nail in my rear tire, I think I got it close to home where there is some construction. The nail protrudes through the side wall and the tire will not hold air. I decided to remove the wheel and take it to a local shop. Easy instructions, which I followed, however when it comes to the part, "tilt the wheel and slide it out," I can't.

I have the bike on the center stand and the front is tilted forward and weighted down.

Any secret manouvers???

Post by **MikeCam** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 3:50 pm

Loosen the two bolts holding your exhaust in place - first midway back, inboard up under the fender area is a large hex (Allen) head (8mm I think); second is the large nut holding the exhaust to the catalytic converter and the cover plate - inboard, underneath, hard to see/reach. Twist and turn the exhaust out of the way.

Alternatively, using a sturdy floor jack, lift the bike higher than the centerstand (be careful to maintain balance and sturdy support for the front wheel) - high enough is 2-3 inches higher than centerstand.

Either way, wheel comes out more easily.

csalt · Post by **csalt** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 3:53 pm

Had to wiggle pretty hard last time I had the wheel off(rubber mallet). Corrosion gets on the inside lip. Be prepared to buy a new tire if nail went through the sidewall.
Doug

Post by **ladybeemer** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 3:59 pm

Thanks Mike and Doug. I figured the exhaust would play a role in this venture! I'll try that route.
Yes, I have a new tire, which was delivered the day after I ordered it from KG Motorcycle Tires. I've used them before, amazing service.

Post by **DSKYZD** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 4:32 pm

Crank up the preload all the way, but count the clicks so you know how many to back off later.

Sitting behind the bike, bottom of wheel tilts towards muffler, then the whole wheel comes back toward you between muffler and rear fender.

It's fiddly, a friend to hold the wheel up, and a rubber mallet to free it from the hub is helpful.

DSKYZD

Post by **Boxer** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 5:20 pm

Is all the air out of it? If not, let it all out and that makes it easier to squeeze out by the muffler. I never had to loosen the muffler before mine was lowered....But I can see how that would make it really easy.

Post by **duckdave** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 10:23 pm

I didn't have to move the muffler when I changed my rear tire out, but I had to whack the heck out of it (rubber mallet, while rotating the wheel) to break it loose from the hub. I cleaned things up in that hub assembly before reassembly.

Sunbeemer · Post by **Sunbeemer** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 11:12 pm

It takes a big rubber mallet knocking evenly all around the tire a little at a time, and when it comes loose, tilt it and roll it out . I believe mine comes out easiest on the right side.

A note: You can prevent the swing arm inner pin bolt from dinging your rim by placing a rag over it before getting the tire loose.

You did remember to remove the rear brake caliper?

Post by **CycleRob** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:13 am

ladybeemer,

My first tire removal I had the same problem. It was too tight a fit even when tilted. "Steering" it to the left helps enough to get it out with a simultaneous flexing outward pull on the muffler by your assistant. You gotta move real slow to stay aware of the wheel paint scratching danger against the FD. That's the drill if you absolutely hate to loosen and move or take the muffler off.

Letting the air out might work for taking the tire out -but- complicates putting the new wheel on if you don't have a compressor or pump. You might just as well take the muffler off.

Speaking of taking the muffler off, there's a round of frustration

waiting for you there unless you know the routine. It will help a lot if you know certain operations will require specific directional forces greater than you anticipated. Take the top hanger 7mm Allen head bolt off that's hidden on the wheel side of the frame. Then loosen the 15mm nut on the exhaust clamp at the bottom of the muffler several turns. You may have to tap the open ends of the clamp with a small hammer so it unsticks from it's tightly squeezed and corroded-in-place position. It'll pop loose, then you can wiggle & turn the muffler as you remove the clamp/heatshield assembly rearward along with the muffler, but slightly separated from it about 1/2". It may take a lot of man sized forceful wiggling/turning/pulling on the muffler outlet end until it finally breaks free. Now you can really clean everything good and give it a good car wax job.

After the new tire is on, if you have or can borrow a 2" long bead squeeze of Hi-Temp RTV Silicone gasket sealer for the exhaust joint, it will ease the installation, prevent all those little backfiring pops -and- totally eliminate those gazillion little black carbon specks on the wheel's silver paint. Coat the outside of the male pipe and inside of the muffler inlet so the muffler female pipe's expansion slit is filled solid with the sealer. You might think the sealer will smoke and catch fire when the bike runs, but it doesn't. Just allow it to set up, like overnite.

The heat shield has to travel forward WITH the muffler, partially plugged on as you install it, otherwise you will have great difficulty putting them together as the clamp will be around the corner of the pipe's bend and it's insertion point will NOT line up correctly. This little secret initially escaped me until I gave it a closer look and figured it out.

Prior to your riding the bike, remember to pump the rear brake till the pads clamp the rotor and you get a hard pedal.

I do not recall giving this much of a detailed muffler remove/install instruction before, but all will certainly benefit and Linda will be less frustrated and more willing to work on her bike the next time.

.

RBrider · Post by **RBrider** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:52 am

I change tires on my Rockster pretty often, but I've never had to remove, or even loosen the muffler.
And I have the 5.5 in rim and 180/55 tire.

If I remember correctly, the bottom of the wheel has to slide to the right (opposite the muffler).

When the tire comes in contact with the muffler on one side, and the big allen bolt in the swingarm on the otherside, then gently rotate the rear of the tire towards the right side of the bike as well.

It's a tight fit between the muffler and the allen bolt, but it'll come out.

Be careful, use finese, rather than brute force.

Are you gonna install the tire yourself?

Let us know how you make out.

RB

bbill · Post by **bbill** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 8:18 pm

I don't know if this will work on this bike but I have used it on others. Put the bike center stand on a couple of pieces of 2x6. You do this one side at a time but rocking the bike so one leg of the center stand comes off the ground. slide the 2x6 under then rock the bike up on the other side and slide the other 2x6 under on that side. Now the center stand and the bike is higher. should help get the tire/wheel out. Like I said, I haven't tried this with this specific bike so use caution. Bill

Post by **ladybeemer** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:41 am

Thanks everyone.
After reading Rob's post, I think removing, or at least loosening the muffler is the way to go. The weather yesterday cancelled any mechanical endeavours, however I, am prepared for next weekend.
I even purchased a rubber mallet (shouldn't every girl have one)?

Being able to wiggle the muffler a few inches will give me the clearance to get the wheel off. The idea of removing the muffler, cleaning and waxing thoroughly, sounds appealling, albeit daunting.

Will post an update next week........

Post by **wncbmw** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 8:08 am

I have become more adept at taking the muffler off, after some experimentation with removal of it completely a few times. But I have never sealed it per Rob's instructions. I think I will remove it again and seal it up good!

BTW, I could not offer any more tips on rear tire removal other than the magic words I usually use - %#@*&%@!

And maybe the rear fender removal operation. That helps too!

Post by **zooomart** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 12:24 pm

+1 never had to loosen the muffler on my 2004 R1150R to get the rear wheel off. Any one think the clearance is different one year or model to the next?

Post by **ruddy** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 1:37 pm

+1 I, too, have never removed or loosened the muffler to get the rear wheel off of my '03 R on two occasions so far. I've been able to slide it out with little difficulty between the muffler and the fully extended rear fender extension. Sliding the bottom of the tire out under the muffler works for me. Replacing it has been no problem either. I do find it necessary to remove the system bags, however.

Post by **duckdave** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 11:09 pm

+1
Have not had a problem either. Glad I didn't know about this problem when I levered on new tires a couple of months ago, I might have been shy about doing it.

It's possible I've been lucky. When I got my bike, it had a Remus exhaust, but it was defective (had gone all soft in a big section, I think it was made of carbon fiber), so I got the owner to put the stock one on. However, he left the front pipe on (replacements for the catalytic converter). So maybe that gives me more room. The stock muffler does not interfere with side bags tho.

Post by **ladybeemer** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:59 pm

The rear wheel is off!!!
I was having a stellar day with other chores and after stopping by the new local m/c shop and discovering he doesn't do BMW's, the pressure was on.
I followed CycleRob's instructions re loosening the muffler..... presto, the wheel disengaged from the bike.

I'm going to skip the muffler/heat sheild separation cleaning scenario while I'm ahead, however I will get to scrub in areas I've never seen before.

Thanks again to all who helped.