BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Folks, The latest clutch failutre issue was the last straw. Three months ago I went through electrical issue that required replacement of the rear wiring harness. Then on my way home, on the highway, my clutch gave out. I had fun while it lasted but it is time to move on. Yesterday, I traded my R115...

I got a pair of Dunlop Qualifiers and so far, so good.

I have an '04 and made the following changes: - Dunlop Qualifiers - K&N Air Filter - Techlusion TFI Fuel Mod - Leo Vince Slip on The sound from the Leo Vince is really nice. A throaty growl but not loud. As for HP, seat-of-pants-Dynometer, definitely more at the top end and the throttle is much ...

Got a call from the dealer and they told me they found bad wiring going to the tail light. I found out there are two harnesses and the one going to the tail light is connected to the fuse at issue. Anyhow, it is being repaired under warranty and the harness is on order. So I will continue to sit on ...

My bike is still under warranty so I brought it back to the dealer, informed them of the issues I'm still having anf keeping my fingers crossed. I'll let you know what they find.

Thanks again to all. I have a Clymer on order and hope to get to the bottom of this. I will seek some help. Thanks again, and I will let you know the outcome.

Thanks for the suggestions. I measured the voltage from the battery terminals when it was off and idling on choke. Also, I am not very familiar with electrical stuff so if I performed what you suggested, then what would that show me? That there's something wrong with the wiring and not the alternato...

A few weeks back I had a fuse that kept on blowing (4A fuse to the instrument panel). Took it to the dealer and they said it was because of tight zip ties and loose connection to instrument panel. Okay, the fix from the dealer lasted a week and the fuse blew again. Except now, I noticed that the tac...

Okay, the fix from the dealer lasted a week and the fuse blew again. Except now, I noticed that the tach doesn't fluctuate, it stays zero and the Battery Charge Current Light is always on, no more revving and the light goes away situation, it just stays lighted no matter the revvs. After reading a l...

Okay, the dealer said it was a tight zip tie that cause the connector to the instrument panel to have a loose connection. So, far the fuse has not blown and the replacement of my air filter (to K&N), installation of a Techlusion, a Leo Vince slip on, and a set of Dunlop Qualifers, they have give...

Here's an update on my situation. I changed the battery and noticed that the neutral light was still out. So, I checked the fuse, 4 amp, and it was blown. I changed it out and all seemed fine until I took it out for a test ride, then it happened, the fuse blew again. However this time, as I rode the...

The bike is an October 2004 make with everything original and about 8800 miles. The start up does whine a bit and I've noticed this since I've never put the bike on a battery tender during the winter storage. Aside from this problem and one time while I was cruising, the bike stalled and I couldn't ...

I search and didn't see a post on this, so if I missed one, my apologies. I just got home today from riding my bike from work. About 1/2 mile from my house I noticed that at every stop light my Battery Charge Current light would light up. However, when I either rev the engine or get going again, the...

On my ride into work today I noticed that my clutch travel was adjusting itself during traffic. As if one moment the travel closed in while a second later, it would be farther out again. I will bleed the clutch and see if this helps. Thanks again.

I have a 2005 R1150R with 7500 miles on it. At about 6000 miles I noticed that my clutch lever travel went further and further out, to the point where it is at the last setting and still pretty far out to engage the clutch. I am wondering if this may have something to do with bleeding the clutch lin...