Stick Coil possible non-oem replacement

Topics related to the ownership, maintenance, equipping, operation, and riding of the R1150R.

Moderator: Moderators

Post Reply
macx
Basic User
Posts: 912
Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:50 pm
Donating Member #: 0
Location: Cape Girardeau, MO

Stick Coil possible non-oem replacement

Post by macx »

Might be a possibility as a replacement for the factory ones

If for no other reason than cost, and possibly better longevity.
They come with plug hardware, but must be used with a CD
ignition system - don't know if ours is considered that or ??

Ran across this while looking for something else



http://www.aemelectronics.com/ignition- ... -coils-20/
boxermania
Quadruple Lifer
Posts: 3644
Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2005 6:37 pm
Donating Member #: 312
Location: Baton Rouge, LA.....aproaching retirement

Re: Stick Coil possible non-oem replacement

Post by boxermania »

Those look like the onesI have on my Suzuki Burgman 650 twin.
Member #312
06 Suzuki Burgman 650 "state of flux"
79 CBX
User avatar
sweatmark
Septuple Lifer
Posts: 2236
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 11:11 am
Donating Member #: 208
Location: Oregon USA

Re: Stick Coil possible non-oem replacement

Post by sweatmark »

There was discussion a while back about converting the stick plugs to conventional coil assembly... is that a possibility?

What inputs does the stick coil receive? What's the trigger signal? TTL square wave or other?

And how does this compare with secondary coil pack trigger?
Rockster#2, K1300S, S1000R (for sale)
User avatar
riceburner
Basic User
Posts: 3809
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2005 7:54 am
Donating Member #: 0
Location: Hiding in your blind spot....
Contact:

Re: Stick Coil possible non-oem replacement

Post by riceburner »

Do they come with a special tool for getting the bloody things off?
Non quod, sed quomodo.

A Rockster Life
macx
Basic User
Posts: 912
Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:50 pm
Donating Member #: 0
Location: Cape Girardeau, MO

Re: Stick Coil possible non-oem replacement

Post by macx »

Now that's a good question!

When I moved back home after a 2-1/2 year job 400 miles away,
of course everything was in a shambles and I couldn't find anything.

Needed to check my plugs, couldn't find my handy dandy coil
removal tool.

Last resort, took a small pair of channel locks, gripped the outer end
of the coil fairly tightly, was surprised how easily it came off.
No damage at all to anything.

Of course, last time I put them on I smeared a thin coat of anti sieze
around the plug so the coils wouldn't stick to the plug.

Next day I found my coil removal tool.
macx
Basic User
Posts: 912
Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:50 pm
Donating Member #: 0
Location: Cape Girardeau, MO

Re: Stick Coil possible non-oem replacement

Post by macx »

sweatmark wrote:There was discussion a while back about converting the stick plugs to conventional coil assembly... is that a possibility?

What inputs does the stick coil receive? What's the trigger signal? TTL square wave or other?

And how does this compare with secondary coil pack trigger?
Don't have a clue what actual kind of signal the stick coils receive,
I never thought about it beyond itf likely being just a simple trigger
pulse plus the in voltage.

I've still got my convention coil & wires I bought to try that but just
haven't had time to mess with it yet.

If I recall on the wiring diagram, the signal for both upper and lower
coils comes basically from the control unit, so I had figured they would
probly be the same type of signal - at least not being an electrical or
electronics guru. As basic as our engine control systems are, I would
tend to doubt they'd have separate systems for the 2 different types
of coils.
eduardobelmonte
Basic User
Posts: 77
Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 10:33 pm

Re: Stick Coil possible non-oem replacement

Post by eduardobelmonte »

macx

I had the same problem trying to change the plugs in the middle of nowhere.
All I needed to use were two flat screw drivers (the wider the better) simultaneously and pry the stick out slowly and carefully making only minimum force when prying them out from their cavity.
The flat driver connected to the border the sticks have at the top and prying against the metal of the head. I prefer this to using a channel lock or a wise grip because the later could exert pressure and cause cracks in the stick. Cracks would mean no more spark being produced and that would be the END OF THE PROBLEM.

But of course if you have a pretty good hand and you are SURE you can be gentle then the channel locks I would consider too. BUT I don't like to take extra risks... you know.

Eduardo.
Post Reply