How To Install GS Handguards On A R1150R

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How To Install GS Handguards On A R1150R

Postby Beemeridian » Sun Dec 16, 2007 4:29 pm

The part number for the "Set Hand Protector" is 71607652330. Mine cost $72.61, and come with all the fittings.
It is proper that thanks be given to Cyclerob and Mikecam for their inspiration and help in this project.

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Place a towel over the tank to save your marriage, then engrave the handguards to save your sanity when you reinstall them next winter if you remove them in spring. Clip the cable ties on the handlebars.

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Now insert the fillister (cap head) screw through the larger of the clamp halves on top and thread it 3 or 4 turns into the smaller half on the bottom. Then loosen the bar end screws (5mm hex), they are torqued to 20 Nm.

Decision time. Depending upon your setup you may have to either raise or lower the clutch and brake line banjos, and this may require cutting the tabs near them. I believe it is my bar-backs that made it impossible to position them inside the handguards as per the included manual's instructions, so I raised mine to place them outside, while the cables and wires fell naturally into place inside. Note: loosen the banjos just enough to move them.
Edit: As noted later in this thread, an option is to not remove the tabs but rather to Dremel out a portion of the handguard to allow the hydraulic lines to pass through. You will have to decide what is right for you.
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This is the clutch side banjo tab that I just Dremeled off. A hacksaw will do, but either way apply tape to protect nearby wires and cables. Banjos torque to 18 Nm.
Edit: You don't have to cut the tabs off if you are keeping the hydraulic line inside the handguard, you can Dremel out a portion of the handguard to avoid chaffing the line. If you put them on the outside only a BMW tech would know the lines had been moved and the "factory" look is maintained. If you loosen the banjos you should bleed the front brake and clutch.

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Here is the raised brake banjo after the tab is cutoff. And a little flat black paint on both satisfied my little OC disorder.

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The handguard goes outside the clamps with the threaded insert going in from the top and the torx T30 screwing in from the bottom. All the T30s torque to 5 Nm. A longer 5mm hex is included for the bar ends, torque it to 20 Nm.

Lastly, look everything over for interference, making sure the levers are free and the controls function normally, then torque to the amounts above. Check for controls function again after tightening.
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Clean your tools and put them away. Go inside and have a beer; it's too cold to ride anyway :D
Last edited by Beemeridian on Tue Jan 22, 2008 10:47 am, edited 5 times in total.
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Postby towerworker » Sun Dec 16, 2007 7:27 pm

What ya mean -- It's too cold to ride?

When it's too cold to start--then it's too cold to ride!

Nice job on the handguards installation instruction and pics!
You'll love 'em!

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Postby BigC » Sun Dec 16, 2007 9:00 pm

Great write up!! As many questions as this topic generates every year, this should be sticky material IMO ;)

Edit...or maybe it should be included in the FAQ it section :roll:
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Postby DSKYZD » Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:28 pm

Excellent job Dave!

I tell myself every year I'm going to do this...so far I haven't. This will help me when I do.

We'll let this thread run it's course then when it's dropped off the first page we'll archive it. Help me to remember to do this, Dave.

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Postby CycleRob » Mon Dec 17, 2007 12:29 am

A few words just to clarify and enhance the important points.

--Only the clutch M/C banjo fitting aluminum limiter lug needs to be cut IF you want to also neatly capture/include the hydraulic line inside the handguard's throat with the wires & cable. The brake side M/C banjo fitting needs to be turned the other way, away from it's limiter lug, so it's not an issue. When you do the clutch side lug cut & rearward turn of the hydraulic line, it fits handsomely inside the handguard looking like the factory did the work.
EDIT: The stout Aluminum locating lug is needed by the factory to exactly locate the banjo bolt location. They install each clutch/brake system onto the bike, already connected/filled/bled/sealed from another factory location. The lug also helps mechanics and novices quickly locate the correct banjo bolt location. It's no big deal to remove the clutch side locating lug, especially when it prevents a clean flowing factory lookalike installation. I cringe when I read about someone Dremeling the plastic handguards. #-o [-X

--Be sure to start the threads on the rearward then the forward barclamp bolt that pass thru the handguard BEFORE you put the bar end bolt in the handguard or you will have great difficulty starting the barclamp bolts later. Once the barclamp bolts are started but loose enough so the clamp can slide up/down on the handlebar, locate, then force the guard's bar end portion into place and install the bolt, just mildly distorting the handguard's natural shape. They were made for 1150GS handlebars, but fit OK on 1150R bars.

--Ensure the levers have one finger's clearance to the handguard's bottom surface, then securelytighten the bar end bolt. Recheck the lever clearances again and occasionally as part of your pre-ride inspection.

--With the stock Roadster handlebars NOTHING of the plastic handguard needs to be cut, filed or trimmed !!!


FYI, the only bad part about the handguards is that they make it more difficult to wave back to the bumper crop of Harley riders. Oh well, hands on the bars . . . . and . . . . . they get a helmet nod.



.
Last edited by CycleRob on Sun Oct 05, 2008 12:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Boxer » Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:52 am

Hey Dave! Whats all that white powder stuff on your bike? :shock:
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Postby Beemeridian » Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:25 pm

Hey Dave! Whats all that white powder stuff on your bike?
:idea: I should have vacuumed the Dremel residue away before the photoshoot.

Cyclerob's points are well made and I am grateful. I tried every way possible to get those hydraulic lines inside the guards, but with my barbacks it would have chaffed them severely, so "up" was the only option, thus negating the need to remove the clutch's tab but still requiring the brake tab's removal.
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Postby riceburner » Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:53 am

I'm not sure altering that clutch m/c is such a good idea - I'd MUCH rather modify the handguard to allow the hose to use it's usual path.

price of hand-guard - $30ish
price of clutch m/c - $200?? (Im guessing).

On the Rockster I had to mod the brake side guard ever so slightly but you can hardly tell.
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Postby Buckster » Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:29 am

I am with riceburner on this one. I trimmed a lot off the gaurds to make them work right for mine. All the cables go through the gaurds.


Gotta love the Dremel :D
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Postby adairb » Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:42 pm

Great pics, Thanks. Does anyone know the part numbers for the mounting hardware?
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Postby Beemeridian » Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:50 pm

Edit: The parts listed below are included with the kit 71607652330 and need not be ordered separately.

2 ea. 32712328841 Clamping Bush
2 ea. 32717660005 Countersunk Head Screw (M8X40)
2 ea. 32717655489 Pipe Clamp Top
2 ea. 32717655490 Pipe Clamp Bottom
2 ea. 32717655491 Threaded Bush
2 ea. 32717656995 Spacer Bushing
2 ea. 07129903441 Screw (M6X20-A2-70)
2 ea. 46637653686 Oval Head Screw (M6X30)
1 ea. 32712328693 Hand Protector Left
1 ea. 46632328694 Hand Protector Right
Last edited by Beemeridian on Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby frbank6 » Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:03 pm

Beemeridian,

So I would need to order all those items you listed in addition to the handguards themselves to do it correctly, or are they included with the guards?
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Postby Beemeridian » Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:08 pm

The parts listed are all included with the kit called "Set Hand Protector" in part #71607652330. adairb asked for the mounting hardware part numbers themselves, so I listed them.
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Postby frbank6 » Sat Dec 29, 2007 3:41 pm

I just did this today. I had to clip the cable ties on the bars and Dremel a very small amount off the left guard, but that was all. I just went for a ride and I have to say this is one of the best things I've done to my bike. Dramatically improves the heat from the grips.
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Postby boxermania » Sun Dec 30, 2007 9:56 am

Dave

I just have one question:

If you own only one bike, why do you have 2 cats and three mufflers neatly stacked in the corner of your shed??????

Are you planning to make your bike the first 4 cyl boxer, by stacking a second motor on top of the original? :lol: :lol:
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Postby MikeCam » Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:26 am

Ah Ha!
The Older I Get, The Less I Know.
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Postby Beemeridian » Sun Dec 30, 2007 12:32 pm

ah ha indeed. you got me there.
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Re: How To Install GS Handguards On A R1150R

Postby busithoth » Sat Oct 03, 2009 2:08 pm

Thanks for this tutorial!
Just ordered a set #71607652330 of fleabay.
Saw a set installed at the dealership the last time I was there, and realized that these would make all the difference in the bitter weather (and apparently this winter will be bitter...)

thanks again!
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Re: How To Install GS Handguards On A R1150R

Postby nine5 » Sun Feb 07, 2010 9:44 am

can anyone tell me where to buy this product at a discount. I looked at my local BMW dealer and they wanted $104 for it.
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